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neutrino DINGHY |
FABRICATION |
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During the spackling of the inverted
hull, the flange around the gunwale was not there as it is easier to fair the
hull this way. The spackling added 1/8” to the overall measurements. The flange was added on by simply
gluing a whole sheet of foam core back on the plug. Then reinforced with
fiberglass tape and faired. The re-attachment of the flange is
essential for the molding of the hull as it serves as the air tight lock by way of a bead
of mastic for the vacuum film. The finished spackled hull was
finished off with a latex paint-able primer and waxed 5 times with mold
release wax.
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In order to get enough vacuum, a
second venture pump was added. Be sure to use a reduction valve
to control pressure. |
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The molding was done in one operation starting with: One layer of texilium (alu covered
glass constitute the inside of the hull. One full layer of carbon. One full layer of carbon/Kevlar. The keel, skeg, bow and gunwales
received additional layers to assure stiffness and impact resistance. The vacuum was generated by shop air from a 60 gallon, oiled
compressor. The layout and molding took about 8 hours. It cured for 18 hours. The molded hull was stuck on the plug and unfortunately the plug
had o be broken. First test ;)….and itching after cutting the flange.
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The bottom portholes was fabricated by placing marine plywood
frames directly on to the carbon hull, then faired with “peanut – thickness”
fairing filler/epoxy before the hull received its last full layer of carbon.
This additional thickness around the portholes assures stiffness and flanges
for insertion of the polycarbonate (3/8”) panes. The portholes were cut out
after the hull was lifted off the plug. Before proceeding with internal floatation, twarts
eg, the railing was fabricated in place
to provide stiffness to the hull. 2-5 layers of Kevlar. This assured great rigidity to the hull. The railing is covering
the cut-off of the hull and at the same time it provides about 15lb of
floatation. Kevlar in 4-6 layers is also used to attach D-rings both under
the bow and on the transom, and along the chine and keel lines. |
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Jan-Henrik Andersen 2005