Preserving the Birthplaces of the Atom Bomb

By PATRICIA LEIGH BROWN

RICHLAND, Wash. — B Reactor rises above the desolate plain here, a
windowless, dilapidated and ominous landmark of the nuclear age.

 The Hanford Nuclear Reservation, which surrounds the reactor, has
the country's greatest concentration of radioactive wastes, in
underground tanks that have been leaking for decades. Because of
the contamination, the byproduct of 50 years of nuclear- weapons
production, the government allows only occasional visitors here,
and nobody younger than 18.

 Yet this unlikely structure, a crucible of the Manhattan Project,
may become a national landmark. The Energy Department, at the
behest of Congress, is studying the feasibility of decontaminating
and preserving B Reactor, and perhaps one day opening it to the
public.

 The effort reflects the growing realization among government
officials and preservationists that the remnants of the earliest
days of the atomic age and the cold war are in danger of
disappearing. The concern has intensified in recent years as the
Energy Department has dismantled deteriorating buildings at
Hanford, in southeastern Washington; Los Alamos, N.M.; Oak Ridge,
Tenn.; and other sites around the country where scientists and
engineers once raced to plan, build and detonate the atomic bomb.
Many of the buildings are contaminated, and most have been
off-limits for decades.

 "The department realized that if no one stepped in, we would
essentially eliminate the physical property of the Manhattan
Project," said Dr. F. G. Gosling, the Energy Department's chief
historian.

 Nations traditionally make monuments of their grandest and most
glorious places. The campaign for B Reactor, which opened in 1944
under the supervision of the physicist Enrico Fermi, reflects a
growing willingness to also protect historic sites that evoke
unpleasant and painful memories, and in some cases are actually
hazardous.

 "The atomic bomb was one of the most significant events of the
20th century, and these are the historic sites associated with it,"
said John M. Fowler, executive director of the Advisory Council on
Historic Preservation, a federal agency that monitors government
properties.

 "People don't think about these places in the kind of historical
terms they think about Gettysburg. But we have to make decisions
now that will determine whether these buildings continue to exist."

 In a report for the Energy Department, the council recently
recommended designating eight Manhattan Project sites, including B
Reactor, as national landmarks. They also include the site in Los
Alamos where components for the first atomic bombs were assembled;
a fragment of the building in Oak Ridge that provided uranium
isotopes for the Hiroshima bomb, and the Trinity site, south of
Albuquerque, where on July 16, 1945, the atomic age began in a
blast so bright it was said to have reflected off the moon.

 Several potential landmarks are still contaminated. Of those, only
the B Reactor, which made plutonium for the Nagasaki bomb, is being
proposed for eventual year-round tourism. A few sites have already
been preserved and made public, including the X-10 Graphite Reactor
at Oak Ridge, which was built as a smaller pilot plant for Hanford,
and the Trinity site in Alamogordo, N.M., which allows visitors
twice a year, on the first Saturday in April and October.

 But not until now has the Energy Department taken a coordinated
approach to preserving atomic sites.

 "I don't want the country to forget what it took to win a war and
what this community gave up to win it," said Senator Patty Murray,
a Washington Democrat who secured $950,000 from Congress last year
for the department to make B Reactor safe enough for cleanup
workers, and to study the feasibility of converting it to a museum.


 She envisions a place "kind of like the Holocaust Museum," she
said. "It's not a place to enjoy a day, but where you learn what
can happen."

 Keith A. Klein, manager of the Energy Department's Richland
office, which oversees Hanford, said he thought it would be
possible to eliminate airborne contamination at B Reactor, one step
in making it safe for tourism. Doug Sherwood, Hanford project
manager for the Environmental Protection Agency, said the reactor
could be made safe for strictly controlled public access, but noted
that some might find the cost prohibitive. "There's quite an
interest in preserving this facility," he said, but added, "It's a
big job and possibly one we should not undertake."

 He estimated that it could cost $10 million to make B Reactor
museum- ready, beyond the costs of the current cleanup of the
Hanford reservation, which are expected to total many billions of
dollars in the next few decades.

 Senator Ron Wyden, an Oregon Democrat, cautioned that talk about a
B Reactor museum was premature until the cleanup was finished.

 "I don't see how you can justify spending federal funds to
preserve a facility at Hanford and elsewhere, where close
communities are still at risk," he said. Hanford is about 25 miles
from the Oregon border, upstream on the Columbia River.

 Joe Davis, a spokesman for the Energy Department, said, "We know
that sites and workers played an important part of history that
should endure," but that no decision had been made on which sites
to save. 

 Richard Rhodes, the Pulitzer Prize-winning author of "The Making
of the Atomic Bomb," supports maintaining at least some of what he
calls "the physical reality of that time."

 "Many people think that the Manhattan Project was 30 people
building a bomb at Los Alamos," he added, "but it was 150,000 — an
effort comparable at the time to the race to the moon. It's our
past. Not to preserve it is to censor it."

 Behind the push for preservation is a growing interest in atomic
tourism. On the Web, atomictourist.com directs atom-age buffs to
places like the White Sands Missile Range in New Mexico, which
contains the Trinity site, and EBR1, an experimental breeder
reactor outside Arco, Idaho.

 At the Greenbrier Resort in Warm Springs, W.Va., nearly 200,000
visitors have paid up to $25 to tour the ultimate Strangelovian
relic: the cavernous cold war bunker built to shelter members of
Congress from a nuclear attack. This summer, the Smithsonian
Institution is offering a tour of Manhattan Project landmarks in
New Mexico, including the High Bay building, a ramshackle structure
where key components for the Trinity device and the Nagasaki bomb
were assembled. Ellen Bradbury, who is leading the Smithsonian
tour, calls High Bay "the Manhattan Project equivalent of the
Silicon Valley garage."

 The most compelling landmarks may be the Manhattan Project towns
themselves.

 Like Richland and Los Alamos, Oak Ridge was a once top-secret
creation of the government, omitted from maps until 1949. Today,
visitors can take "atomic train" trips that start at the old guard
station and offer scenic views of the K-25 Gaseous Diffusion
Building, an engineering marvel that sprawls over 44 acres. The
advisory council suggests saving a fragment of K-25, the Roosevelt
Cell, which was intended as a viewing platform for President
Franklin D. Roosevelt.

 But Ralph Hutchison, coordinator of the Oak Ridge Environmental
Peace Alliance, a watchdog group, noted that K-25 still contains
hazardous waste and 23 miles of contaminated pipeline. A wiser
commemoration, he said, would be "a green field and a marker."

 Obstacles to preservation are even more formidable at Hanford.
Sixty- eight of its 177 underground tanks are assumed to have
leaked. Experts say that much of the Hanford Reservation's 560
square miles can never be made clean enough for unrestricted
access, but some say parts of it could be.

 The move to save B Reactor, which has been idle since 1968, has
been spearheaded by the local B Reactor Museum Association, many of
whose members worked at Hanford. They are hoping for regular tours
of the reactor's face, a looming panel of antique nozzles and
tubes, as well as the brass-knobbed control room, whose "you are
there" quality is intact, as if Fermi had just gotten up from his
chair.

 For now, Hanford is something of a nuclear cemetery. The Army
Corps of Engineers was drawn to this high desert land because of
its remoteness and its proximity to the Columbia River, with water
for cooling reactors, and sand and gravel banks for making
concrete. In February 1943, the government gave residents of the
towns of White Bluff and Hanford 28 days to move out. The towns'
remnants are still here, including the shell of the old Hanford
High School, reachable only with security clearance down crumbling
four-lane roads — some now leading nowhere — built for the
Manhattan Project.

 Members of the B Reactor Museum Association recall its shroud of
secrecy in the 1940's. "We didn't talk about reactors, we talked
about `the unit,' " said Roger Rohrbacher, 80, who was an engineer
at B Reactor. "We didn't talk about plutonium, we talked about `the
product.' "

 Many of them want to honor the technological achievements of
Hanford as well as the suffering it brought.

 "When you're standing in front of the reactor you realize this is
what humans can do if pushed to the limit," said Gene Weisskopf,
president of the association. "It's a great place to contemplate
war."    

Copyright 2001 The New York Times Company