Now that you have the basics, here is something you might want to try when you're feeling especially anal and unemployed ;) Here you combine airbrush and plain brush work (though once again, airbrush is optional) and a whole lot of other stuff. But don't worry, there's an explanation next to the picture to guide you through. Also, although the sample models are from "Five Stars Stories," (very rare plastic molded ones) the techniques used are applicable to any other resin/soft resin model
These pictures are courtesy of "New Type" magazine, and the text was translated by me so i fyou have a problem with something, just mail me ne. Also, Ben has inserted some personal opinions and such into the text, so in no way is this the direct trans
In order to remove them from their molds, many model kits have a light film of chemical residue on them. So take a mild cleanser like "Magic Clean" and wash that away
Because models like this are cast in vacuum tight conditions, almost everything molded is cast--this includes pieces of the tree or dirt that might have gotten caught in the process. So if you find any holes or any imperfections in the kit, now is the time to fill them up. For this, you can use something like "Polly S" putty (same company as the paint makers.) For especially thin or delicate parts, you may want to use a little super glue mixed in the putty for extra hold
Parting lines are those thin lines of resin you see on the sides or models. These lines are product of the casting process, when the two sides of the cast were brought together to 'press' the model. You can use a file to remove this, or a delicate cutter for trimming
After you've checked over the model like a maniac and have fixed all the bigger imperfections, then take a piece of sand paper (types 400/600/800 seem to work best) and polish out the lines and such. for very delicate parts, fold the paper in half and use the edge to sand with. This method allows you almost perfect control over the pressure you want to apply
It's now time to prime the model with what "surfacer" (another dandy word for primer.) For this model, we took a pin grip, drilled a little hole into the model's bottom, and ran a pipe through to hold, so spraying would be easier. You should hold the spray about 10-20 cm, or 4 to 8 inches away for best results. Any closer would create drippiness, and too far away would allow for too much air to bubble the paint
