Bait Cribs:

Update: The new-lighter-autocrib

Bait cribs are evolving from our desire to limit deer's access to bait during   non-shooting hours, during the bow season.  We wish to "restrict" accessibility to the bait at treestand locations,  while simultaneously maintaining  a food sight and smell  presence.  We are (trying) doing this by using bait cribs.  These wood framed, mesh or wire covered   enclosures have small window(s) cut out near the base that allow deer to "munch" day or night, but not gorge themselves and leave.  When full access to the crib is desired (such as in legal shooting hours) the top is pulled back and bait is fully exposed.  The small access windows at the bottom can be closed if desired.

Currently, many bowhunters that use bait, back the pickup truck to the desired stand location and dump a couple 'o tons.  This allows deer to eat freely all day and ALL NIGHT.  Especially during periods of the full moon when "our deer" seem to eat ALL NIGHT LONG and are seldom seen by us during the a.m. time.  This may or may not be the case for you....but....

So we are trying cribs of varying sizes and types.  My hunting partner Scott, likes a long crib with openings in the upper area, while I like "auto-feeding cribs" that tend to move the feed forward and to the bottom.  Feel free to experiment and let us know about "your improvements".  I won't include sizes, since I make most of mine to fit into the back of my Jimmy for easy transport.   However; I'm beginning to think that smaller is better.  My next crib will be around the size of a (100#) grain bag or two, that is taller, but narrower.  This will be an auto-feeder of course. 

c1.jpg (38047 bytes) Frames can be made out of 2x4 material, but this adds weight and is not necessary.  I like using 2x2's with 1x2 cross members.  Cover with chicken wire, wire mesh or what ever you have laying around.  I like to use the international orange plastic mesh that is usually freely discarded after a construction project.  I use a paint roller to put a coat of leftover paint to cover up the brightness of the orange.   

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Make sure you paint the mesh and frame right away, since it gets more and more difficult to get to as you proceed.  Notice the slanting mesh from high in the back to low in the front.  This "moves" the sugar beets (or other bait) to the front automatically (in theory anyways). 

Originally, I use a sheet of plywood for the slanted partition, but its heavy and doesn't improve performance over the (free) mesh.  I'm sticking with mesh.

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(l & r) The beast! 2x4 and plywood.  Must be dropped-off.  This is not a remote unit.

 

This puppy was made with 2x4's and plywood.  Needless to say, its heavy and  was placed where a vehicle can go.  Other lighter unites we carry in.

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BUT, DO THEY WORK?

You betch'a,  The scent of food is there all the time.  They just keep comming back.  When you leave for a week or two the bait doesn't dissapear.   Back this up with a corn feeder and bingo!.  Tip: When you approach your stand for a few days of hunting, chop up a sugar beet or two and spread them out in front of the crib.  They add additional smell and a "visual" attraction to the area.

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