The following pages demonstrate how
to build an elevated deer blind. This is just one way of MANY ways to
build one. Feel free to modify these plans as you see fit. This
project is designed for the beginner and I am building it without
assistance. If you have a helper, it will be much easier for you to
build. Phase one was built in a day and an half.
The PLAN on paper.
Most of the wood for this project has
been from "dumpster diving" in my local subdivision. I asked
the building supervisor if I could rummage through the dumpsters as the
carpenters build the new houses. You would not believe what they consider
"junk". However, since they seldom use 4x4 wolmanized posts,
purchasing four is probably the largest expenses of the project. Purchase post
as long as you desire, I picked up four 12 footers at the local Home Depot for
$12.97 each (total $51.88). While your there pickup 4, 80 pound sacks of
ready mix concrete (total $9.92).
Roll up to your base camp with the supplies and start cutting. Prep every thing before you go out to the field for assembly. It will save you a lot of back and forth trips. I started with the base. Since my plan is 4 foot wide by 6 foot long, I cut all the pieces needed before heading out to the field. Do not assemble the sub floor yet. This will be done in place after you complete the vertical posts. Pre-build two 6 foot long walls. I choose 30 inch high (from floor to base of window opening) walls for windows. At this height I can sit in a swivel chair and put the smoke poll out the window (on a sand bag resting on the shooting rail) for a perfect rest height. The rest of the wall extends to 6 foot tall. Obviously build the walls taller than 6 foot if you are taller. You don't want to bonk your head every time you stand up. Pics FIRST WALL pic2 Pics FIRST WALL pic3 - extend the plywood down 6 inches to nail into the base. This will give it additional strength. Also, when assembling this project, try to use liquid nail adhesive, it adds a bunch of strength.
HIT THE BACK COUNTRY
Time to build. Layout your posts and other materials at your stand site. I chose a hill side spot that is between two archery stands with automated corn feeders. One stand is about 65 yards away and the other is about 80 yards away. An easy shot with my Thompson Center Omega with a Nikon 50mm 3x9, 150 grains of powder and a 298 grain Power Belt bullet!
Start by digging the first hole for the post. Since it is a down hill slope, I chose to dig down 2 feet for the front post. Note that the back post will have to be deeper to be level at the top of the posts that the platform rests on. Use a posthole digger. This cuts a nice hole just larger that the post. Important: MARK a line on the post about 4 feet from the bottom of the post before inserting it into the hole. This will give you a reference point to level all the other posts too. Make sure the post is plumb. This is critical. Fill in the hole with rocks and cement. Add water from a pond or stream. Let it sit. The first post is complete!
3 MORE POSTS TO GO
Dig hole number two and add post number two. Make sure you marked a line around the post 4 feet up from the bottom. Add a horizontal 2x6 between post 1 and post 2. Place the 2x6 perfectly level using the lines you marked (4 ft. up from the bottom). Once level and plumb, fill in with cement and rocks. Let sit. Repeat for post 3 and 4. Secure 2x6 pieces around the bottom of all four posts and let stand until firm. Add some cross bracing. Due to limited materials, only a few cross bracing pieces were added at this time. I will come back to add more later.
Assemble the platform base
Start adding the base pieces that you have previously cut. It doesn’t matter which piece you add first. I chose the long side piece. Add all four pieces around the outside. Next add the joists. Glue and screw (or nail) the joists every 16 inches on center or so. For the final touch add a pre-cut plywood piece (leaning against tree) to the top of the base. While I do not show it, I added yet another ½ inch piece on to the ½ inch piece base to make it super strong. I do not want any noise from the platform as I move around. Base complete. Its starting to take shape.
Remember the walls you built? Time to lift them into place. Lean them next to the tower and hook a rope on to the top. Glue the area to be covered (3 ½ inches by 6 foot long) by the wall. Lift into place and set a couple of nails. Use some temporary bracing to keep the wall vertical. Check plumb. Blast nails along the wall base and on the outside plywood siding to tie it into the platform base. Repeat process for the second wall. LOOK’N good so far. Pic
Feeder shot 1 out the window. Feeder shot
2 out the other window.
THIRD WALL
If you have not already done so, build the third wall. I waited until the first two were up to make sure the third wall would “fit”. I measured the bottom inside dimension to verify it was the correct size. WALL STANDING INSIDE PIC , WALL STANDING OUTSIDE PIC Same procedure for this wall as the other two, except it is smaller. REMEMBER to “EXTEND” the outside plywood sheathing 3 and ½ inches on each side. When hoisted into place, these side flaps will cover the other two walls. When the flaps are nailed into the other walls, it will “tie” up the walls and make them strong. Hoist it up! DISTANT VIEWS: PIC1 PIC2 PIC3 PIC4 END of PART ONR ….DONE SO FAR PIC.
