[Click on the excellent drawing by David Walker (New York) above]
I like this stand best of all. It folds for transport, is an excellent size and can be folded-up when you leave the stand. It can then be locked upright which helps to keep rain, snow and other hunters out of it. Hinges are THE most important item for this stand. They must be EXTRA BEEFY. I found some $50.00 hinges in the dispo center at UofM's campus for $5.00. They weigh a lot, but don't wiggle back and forth when your standing on the treestand like some cheap hinges do. Get the best hinge you can afford.
The base is a free sheet of 1/2" plywood from a pallet. Carefully remove any attached base wood blocks.
Lay out the pattern with a pencil and cut to length. This stand is 30" long and 23" wide (at one end) and 10" wide at the other end. See Detail 1.
Working on the bottom, apply construction adhesive or wood glue to a piece of 6 1/2 " by 8 1/2" by 3/4" thick plywood to the center of the 10" end. This will reinforce the seat post and hinge area. Use drywall screws liberally. See Detail 2.
Next, using 1 1/2" by 1/2" white pine, apply a single rib to the 23" end. Apply 2 more ribs to the center span, attaching them to the 23" end piece and the 3/4" plywood reinforcement area. Apply the other 2 side ribs. Use glue and screws liberally. Add some center cross pieces for extra strength. Trim off excess material. Drink beer. The BASE is now complete.
STEP 2: The seat post.
I have changed the seat post a little for various reasons. I think this will work out better. The post consists of (3) 19 " long 2 X 4 studs. I like the seat a little bit lower, some like so they are almost standing up. Make it longer if you like. Arrange them in a "U" shaped pattern. Glue and screw them together. Drill some "weight reducing" holes all around, leaving a large section at the top (for the eyebolt) and at the bottom (for the hinge). The seat is 3/4" plywood for strength. Add a couple of triangles to the seat for strength. Extra Pic1 Pic2 Pic3 Pic4
The Hinge:
Align the vertical seat post on the base in the desired position. Using a pencil, mark its location. Set the hinge in place and mark the holes and draw around the hinge. The center pin of the hinge sticks down a bit. In order to keep the hinge flat, cut a grove in the base for the hinge to "sit down in". A couple of passes with a circular saw (blade set shallow) will do the trick. Use some strong bolts to connect the hinge to the base and seat post. A "U" shaped bolt OR an "eyebolt" may be used on the seat post to attach the chain and turnbuckle. Add extra links or carabiners to allow the trunbuckle to move around to the outside of the seat supports (triangles).
Some misc. pictures: Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3 Pic 4 Pic5 Pic6
Treestand safety note: I have been using these treestands for over 20 years. I have never had one fail. Well before they would ever fail...they would squeak. Squeaks are intolerable and thus would be replaced at that point. Besides the main chain, a lower ratchet/ribbon cable should be used to secure it above the hinge. Finally, USE A SAFETY HARNESS! p.s. your results may vary ;-)
Back to treestand page
Back to Main Archery page
