Arkansas article by Orland Maxfield

Arkansas article by Orland Maxfield


{ahr'-kuhn-saw}
Arkansas, one of the Southern states of the United States, is bordered by Missouri on 
the north and northeast, by Tennessee and Mississippi on the east, by Louisiana on 
the south, and by Texas and Oklahoma on the west. The region of Arkansas was first 
visited by Europeans in 1541-42, when Hernando de Soto, a Spanish explorer, led a 
party through the area. The region was acquired by the United States in 1803 as part 
of the Louisiana Purchase, and Arkansas became the 25th U.S. state in 1836. 
Long an agricultural region, the state industrialized rapidly after 1940. Today, 
various service industries account for about two-thirds of the gross state product. 
The name Arkansas is derived from a Quapaw Indian word meaning "downstream people"; 
the name was formerly also spelled Arkansa and Arkansaw.
LAND AND RESOURCES Arkansas encompasses a picturesque region, with much forestland and several major rivers. The highest point is Magazine Mountain (839 m/2,753 ft high), in the western part of the state, and the lowest point, along the Ouachita River in the south, has an elevation of 17 m (55 ft); the approximate mean elevation is 198 m (650 ft). About 7% of the state's land area is owned by the federal government. Physiographic Regions Arkansas comprises two major regions of roughly equal size--the Interior Highlands of much of the west and north and the Lowlands of the south and east. The Interior Highlands comprise the Ozark Plateau (see Ozark Mountains) in the north and the Ouachita Mountains. Both areas extend into neighboring states. The Ozarks, ranging in elevation in Arkansas from 150 to 786 m (492 to 2,579 ft), comprise mainly the Springfield and Salem plateaus, in the north, and the Boston Mountains, in the south. The plateaus are gently rolling, except where swift-flowing streams have cut deep valleys. Much of this area is forested and also has good farmland, especially on the Springfield Plateau. The wooded Boston Mountains generally have steep slopes and are interlaced by numerous river gorges. The Ouachita Mountains comprise a series of parallel east-west valleys and ridges, composed of strongly folded and faulted sedimentary rocks. Included in the Ouachitas is the Arkansas Valley, through which runs the Arkansas River. Although generally less elevated than the rest of the region, the valley contains several lofty points, including Magazine Mountain, which is the highest point in the state, and Petit Jean Mountain. The Ouachita Mountains region as a whole contains many mineral springs, such as those found at Hot Springs in Garland County. The Lowlands region is composed of the West Gulf Coastal Plain, in the south, and the Mississippi Alluvial Plain, in the east; the terrain is mostly level and from 30 to 90 m (98 to 295 ft) in elevation. The coastal plain has extensive pine forests and important deposits of bauxite, petroleum, and natural gas; the soil is generally sandy. The alluvial plain, adjacent to the Mississippi River, has a deep fill of unconsolidated river-deposited sediments, sometimes with a shallow hardpan that permits irrigated rice farming. Crowleys Ridge, a narrow north-south band of hills covered with loess, is in the center of the alluvial plain. Rivers and Lakes Arkansas contains several major rivers. The Mississippi River forms most of the state's eastern boundary, and the Arkansas River flows diagonally across the state from the Oklahoma southeast. Other rivers include the White River, which traverses much of northern and eastern Arkansas before entering the Mississippi; the Ouachita River, which rises in western Arkansas and flows south into Louisiana; and the Red River, which forms part of the boundary with Texas. All of Arkansas lies within the Mississippi River drainage basin. Arkansas has few big natural lakes; the largest is Lake Chicot, in the southeast, an oxbow lake near the Mississippi River. The state has several major artificial lakes, created by dams on rivers: Lakes Ouachita, Hamilton, and Catherine, on the Ouachita River; Millwood Lake, on the Little River; Nimrod Lake, on the Fourche La Fave River; Ozark Reservoir and Dardanelle Lake, on the Arkansas River; Greers Ferry Lake, on the Little Red River; Beaver and Bull Shoals lakes, on the White River; and Norfolk Lake, on Bryant Creek. Climate The climate of Arkansas is mild, with warm to hot summers and cool winters. Annual precipitation averages from 1,016 to 1,524 mm (40 to 60 in) and comes mostly during winter and spring. December and January are usually the wettest months in the south, and March through May is the wet period in the north. The Interior Highlands are somewhat cooler than the Lowlands and receive small amounts of snow in the winter. Tornadoes occur in the warm seasons, especially in the extreme northwest and in the low-lying southeast. Little Rock, in the center of the state, has a mean January temperature of 4 deg C (40 deg F) and a mean July temperature of 27 deg C (81 deg F); it receives 1,232 mm (48.5 in) of precipitation per year. The growing season ranges from about 175 days, in the highlands, to about 240 days, in the lowlands. Vegetation and Animal Life About 68,745 sq km (26,543 sq mi) of Arkansas, or about 50% of the state's land area, is covered with forestland, most of which is privately owned. The state has three national forests. Approximately two-thirds of the forests comprise hardwoods, such as oak, white ash, cypress, elm, and hickory; these are located mainly in the Interior Highlands and in the Mississippi Alluvial Plain. The West Gulf Coastal Plain contains softwood forests, chiefly composed of loblolly pine and shortleaf pine. Tulip trees grow on Crowleys Ridge. The state has many kinds of wildflowers, including American bellflowers, yellow jasmines, orchids, water lilies, and hydrangea. The plentiful animal life includes whitetail deer, red foxes, rabbits, squirrels, bobcats, weasels, and muskrat. Among the numerous game birds are ducks, geese, pheasant, woodcocks, and quail. Rivers and lakes are well stocked with fish, such as bass, perch, catfish, bream, and sturgeon. Mineral Resources Arkansas has several valuable mineral deposits. Bauxite is found in great quantity near Little Rock, and deposits of petroleum, natural gas, and bromine are located in the West Gulf Coastal Plain. The Arkansas River Valley has coal and natural-gas deposits. Manganese deposits are found in the northeast but are not mined. There are deposits of diamonds near Murfreesboro, but nearly all the diamonds were recovered during 1908-25 and the area is now a state park; individuals can search for diamonds and occasionally find them near the surface. The state's other mineral resources include stone, sand and gravel, lime, clay, barite, and gypsum. PEOPLE The 1990 resident census of Arkansas is 2,350,725. During the census period 1980-90 the population of Arkansas increased by about 3%, considerably below the national growth rate of about 10% and far below the nearly 20% state growth rate of the previous decade (1970-80). The proportion of urban population has steadily increased since the 1940s. The largest communities in Arkansas are Little Rock (the capital), Fort Smith, North Little Rock, Pine Bluff, Jonesboro, Fayetteville, Hot Springs, Springdale, Jacksonville, West Memphis, and Conway. In 1990 about 83% of the state's inhabitants were white, and about 16% were black; approximately 13,000 were Indians. The fastest-growing ethnic group was Asian. Nearly all Arkansans are U.S.-born. In religion, a substantial majority of Arkansans were Protestant, mainly Baptist and Methodist. A sizable number of inhabitants were Roman Catholics, and a much smaller number Jewish. Education The first school established in Arkansas was the Dwight Mission (opened in 1822 near modern Russellville), whose initial students were Cherokee Indians. In 1843 the state legislature provided for a statewide system of public schools, but private academies dominated education until the 1870s. Among the institutions of higher education in the state are Arkansas Tech University (1909), at Russellville; Arkansas State University (1909), at State University; Harding University (1924), at Searcy; Henderson State University (1890) and Ouachita Baptist University (1886), both at Arkadelphia; Southern Arkansas University (1909), at Magnolia; the University of Arkansas (1871), at Fayetteville; the University of Arkansas at Little Rock (1927); the University of Arkansas at Monticello (1909); the University of Arkansas at Pine Bluff (1873); the University of Central Arkansas (1907), at Conway; and Westark Community College (1928), at Fort Smith. (See Arkansas, state universities of.) Cultural Institutions The leading libraries in Arkansas are at the University of Arkansas at Fayetteville and at the University of Arkansas at Little Rock. The Arkansas Library Commission maintains about 35 regional public libraries. Notable museums in the state include the Arkansas Arts Center, the Old State House history museum and the Museum of Science and History (housed in the building where Gen. Douglas MacArthur was born), all in Little Rock; the University of Arkansas museum, with displays on the state's history, in Fayetteville; a noted museum of firearms, in Berryville; and a museum of Indian artifacts, near Wilson. Little Rock supports various musical groups, including a symphony orchestra. Historical Sites Among the places of historical interest in Arkansas are Arkansas Post National Memorial, including the site of the first permanent white settlement (founded 1686) in the lower Mississippi Valley; Fort Smith National Historic Site, encompassing one of the first U.S. military posts in the Louisiana Territory; Pea Ridge National Military Park, taking in the battlefield where Union forces scored an important victory (Mar. 7-8, 1862) during the Civil War; and the capitol, in Little Rock, of the old Arkansaw Territory. Communications The residents of Arkansas are well served by numerous radio stations (the first one began operation in Pine Bluff in 1920); commercial television broadcasting is augmented by cable systems. Among the more influential daily newspapers are the Fort Smith Southwest Times Record; the Hot Springs National Park Sentinel-Record; the Jonesboro Sun; the Little Rock Arkansas Democrat-Gazette; the Pine Bluff Commercial; and the Texarkana Gazette. The state's first newspaper was the Arkansas Gazette, initially published in 1819 at Arkansas Post and moved in 1821 to Little Rock. The oldest U. S. newspaper published west of the Mississippi River, the newspaper merged in 1991 with the Arkansas Democrat to form the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette. ECONOMY The economy of Arkansas was overwhelmingly agricultural until the middle of the 20th century when industrial plants began to be established in large numbers. Agriculture Although farm income has diminished proportionately as income from services and industry has increased, the value of farm output in Arkansas nonetheless totals several billion dollars annually. Leading as the most valuable crops are soybeans, rice, cotton, and hay; other important crops include wheat, oats, sorghum grain, spinach, tomatoes, potatoes, watermelons, apples, and peaches. Arkansas leads the nation in the production of broilers (young chickens) and is a leading producer of chickens, chicken eggs, and turkeys. The state also has a sizable dairy industry and produces large numbers of beef cattle and hogs. The principal cropland is located in eastern Arkansas, where most of the cotton, rice, and soybeans are grown; livestock farms are situated mainly in the north and northwest. Forestry and Fishing Arkansas has a substantial forest-products industry. The commercially valuable softwood is used for pulp and plywood; much hardwood is also cut. Arkansas has a small but significant fishing industry--perhaps unexpected for an inland state. Millions of pounds of fish are caught by commercial concerns in the Mississippi and its tributaries. The chief species landed are catfish, buffalo fish, carp, gizzard shad, paddlefish, sheepshead, and garfish. Fish also are raised commercially in some unused rice fields that have been flooded. Mining Arkansas has an important mining sector. The most valuable mineral recovered is petroleum; the chief petroleum production sites in Arkansas are in Union and Columbia counties in the south, bordering Louisiana. Other valuable minerals include bromine, natural gas, and stone. Arkansas is the leading U.S. state in the production of bromine as well as bauxite and vanadium; it also was a leading source of barite. Other minerals produced in significant quantities included coal, clay, lime, and sand and gravel. Manufacturing The leading branch of the economy of Arkansas is manufacturing. The chief products are processed food (mainly dressed beef and poultry, canned fruits and vegetables, and dairy products), electrical equipment (notably household appliances and motors), and forest products (especially lumber, paper, and paper goods). Other manufactures include refined petroleum, clothing, printed materials, and metals. Arkansas, with its abundant water, power, and mineral resources, has been developing chemical-processing industries. The chief industrial centers are Little Rock-North Little Rock, Pine Bluff, and Fort Smith. Tourism Arkansas has a large tourist industry, and each year about 15 million persons visit the state. Notable attractions include Hot Springs National Park, with 47 hot springs used by people seeking relief from illness or injury; Buffalo National River, an unpolluted stream that flows past multicolored bluffs and many caves and springs; and a variety of state parks and recreation areas. Arkansas' many lakes, rivers, and streams and wilderness areas attract sizable numbers of out-of-state sport fishermen and hunters. Transportation Road, water, and air transport are the chief means of carrying persons and freight in Arkansas. Although railroad mileage has diminished since early in the 20th century, a number of cities have rail freight service. Among the major navigable waterways are the Arkansas River (navigable from its mouth to Catoosa, Oklahoma, the port for Tulsa) and the Ouachita and White rivers. Major airlines serve the state's largest cities; other centers are connected for feeder lines. Energy Despite its large and varied energy resources (natural gas, petroleum, coal, water), Arkansas lagged in developing them; very few Arkansas farms had electricity in the 1930s. Today, most of the electricity is produced in thermal plants using refined petroleum. The state has several hydroelectric facilities, notably on the White and Little Red rivers, and a nuclear-power plant at Russellville. GOVERNMENT AND POLITICS Arkansas is governed under a constitution of 1874, as amended; previous charters had been adopted in 1836, 1861, 1864, and 1868. The chief executive of the state is a governor, elected to a 4-year term (raised from 2 years by voter approval in 1984). The state's bicameral legislature, called the General Assembly, comprises a 35-member Senate and 100-member House of Representatives; senators are elected to 4-year terms, and representatives are elected to 2-year terms. The highest tribunal in Arkansas is the supreme court, composed of a chief justice and six associate justices, all elected to 8-year terms. The state also has circuit courts, chancery courts, county courts, and municipal courts. Arkansas is divided into 75 counties, each of which is administered by an elected county judge. Each county judge presides over a quorum court, a legislative body whose chief function is to draw up and approve the county budget. The Democratic party dominates state and local government in Arkansas; Republicans have served as governor only in 1868-74 (during the era of Reconstruction), 1967-71 (when Winthrop Rockefeller held the office) and 1981-83 (when Frank D. White served one term). In presidential elections, the Democratic nominee carried Arkansas in all elections between 1872 and 1968; since then the record has been mixed, but the state voted Republican in 1980, 1984, and 1988. In 1992, the state voted for favorite son and Democrat Bill Clinton as the winner in the presidential election. HISTORY Among the earliest inhabitants of present-day Arkansas were the Bluff Dweller Indians, who probably lived in the northwestern part of the state before 1000 BC. About 2,000 years later, Indians known as Mound Builders settled along the Mississippi River in Arkansas. When the first Europeans arrived, in the mid-16th century, the Siouan-speaking Quapaw lived near the mouth of the Arkansas River, and the Osage lived to the north of the river; the Caddo Indians, an agricultural people, who constructed distinctive beehive-shaped dwellings, lived in the southwest. European Exploration and Early Settlement The first Europeans to enter Arkansas were members of a party led by the Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto; they traversed the central and southern parts of the state in 1541-42. In 1673 a group under Jacques Marquette and Louis Jolliet traveled down the Mississippi as far as the Arkansas River. In 1682 a party headed by Robert Cavelier, sieur de La Salle, journeyed down the Mississippi to its mouth. La Salle claimed the Mississippi Valley, including modern Arkansas, for Louis XIV of France and called it Louisiana. One of La Salle's aides, Henri de Tonty, established (1686) Aux Ares, the first permanent white settlement in Arkansas, near the mouth of the Arkansas River; the community later became known as Arkansas Post. In 1719-20 a colony of Germans was established nearby as part of the abortive French Mississippi Scheme. In 1762 France ceded Arkansas and its other possessions west of the Mississippi to Spain. The Spanish encouraged white settlement in the region, but when they returned the area to France in 1800, fewer than 1,000 persons lived in Arkansas. In 1803 the United States acquired Arkansas as part of the Louisiana Purchase. U.S. Territory and Statehood Arkansas was part of the Louisiana District (1804-05), the Louisiana Territory (1805-12), and the Missouri Territory (1812-19) before being constituted, in 1819, as the Arkansaw Territory, which also included part of present-day Oklahoma. Arkansas Post was the capital from 1819 to 1821, when Little Rock was made the capital. Settlement of Arkansas was slow until the later 1820s, when the Cherokee and Choctaw Indians (who had become embroiled in disputes with whites after being moved to Arkansas by the federal government) were removed from the territory. By 1835 Arkansas had 50,000 white inhabitants, and on June 15, 1836, it entered the Union as the 25th state. Black slaves supplied most of the labor for the productive cotton plantations of eastern and southern Arkansas; in 1860 Arkansas had about 111,000 black inhabitants, who constituted more than one-quarter of the total population. The Civil War and Reconstruction On the eve of the Civil War, Arkansas was almost equally divided between secessionists (mainly associated with cotton production) and antisecessionists (largely small farmers of the northwestern part of the state). In March 1861, a state convention voted against leaving the Union, but in May 1861, a month after the Civil War had begun, the convention voted for secession and Arkansas joined the Confederate States of America. In March 1862, Union troops won a bloody battle at Pea Ridge (Elkhorn Tavern), and by early 1864 Confederate forces were confined to southern Arkansas, where they made the town of Washington the new state capital. A Union regime administered most of Arkansas from Little Rock. The war ended in 1865, but during 1866-67 former secessionists controlled the state legislature and passed several measures restricting the rights of the recently emancipated blacks. As a result, Arkansas was placed under federal military rule in 1867. The state was readmitted to the Union in mid-1868, after a new constitution had been ratified. During 1868-74 Republicans controlled the state government; the period was marked by a violent clash over the outcome of the 1872 election for governor. Two Republicans, Elisha Baxter and Joseph Brooks, claimed victory in the close contest, and partisans of the candidates engaged in gun battles in 1874 until President Ulysses S. Grant intervened to help restore order; Baxter was declared governor. In elections later in 1874 the Democrats regained control of the state government. Economic Hardships and Recovery During the late 19th century agriculture (especially cotton cultivation) and business expanded, fostered in part by large-scale railroad construction. Because of low prices and crop failures, farmers faced hard times in the 1880s, however, and, organized in such groups as the Agricultural Wheel, dissatisfied farmers almost gained the governorship in the 1888 election. In the 1890s several laws were adopted that severely restricted the civil rights of blacks in Arkansas. In 1901-07, under Gov. Jeff Davis, a charismatic, Populist-style politician, the state's educational and penal systems were reformed and most of its debt was retired. In 1921 petroleum was discovered near El Dorado, but Arkansas remained overwhelmingly agricultural until manufacturing enterprises began to be established in sizable numbers during the 1940s. Farmers suffered from low cotton prices in the 1920s, a situation compounded by destructive flooding by the Arkansas and Mississippi rivers in 1927 and by a severe drought that began in 1930. The Depression of the 1930s created widespread unemployment and hardship in the state, and many "Arkies" headed west in search of better living conditions. Recovery in the state began during World War II when new industries (such as bauxite processing) were started and several military bases were established. During the war, J. William Fulbright first gained national prominence as a representative of Arkansas in the U.S. Congress. Civil Rights and Recent Trends In 1954 the U.S. Supreme Court ruled that segregating black and white pupils in separate public schools was unconstitutional. Arkansas resisted implementing the ruling, and in September 1957 the state received national attention when Gov. Orval E. Faubus (in office 1955-67) tried to prevent the integration of Little Rock Central High School. President Dwight D. Eisenhower quickly intervened, in part by sending federal troops to Little Rock, and several black students were enrolled at the high school. Resistance by whites to school integration continued into the 1960s and '70s, but by the late 1970s blacks had equal access to virtually all public educational institutions in the state. From 1940 to 1960 the population of Arkansas declined by more than 8%, because many persons, particularly blacks, left the state for better employment opportunities elsewhere. In the 1960s the state's population began to increase, and the trend has continued. Despite efforts during the 1980s centered on education, economic development, and fiscal modernization, Arkansas remains one of the poorest states. Its five-term Democratic governor, Bill Clinton, was elected the U. S. president in 1992. O. Orland Maxfield Bibliography: Ashmore, Harry S., Arkansas: A History (1978; repr. 1984); Bennett, S., and Worthen, W. B., eds., Arkansas Made, 2 vols. (1990-91); Blair, D. P., Arkansas Politics and Government (1988); Bolton, S. Charles, Territorial Ambition (1993); Browne, Turner, The Last River: Life Along Arkansas's Lower White (1993); Donovan, Timothy P., and Gatewood, Willard P., Jr., The Governors of Arkansas (1981; repr. 1988); Graff, Thomas, et al., Arkansas: A Geography (1985); Niswonger, R. L., Arkansas Democratic Politics, 1896-1920 (1990); Tucker, D. M., Arkansas (1986); Williams, C. F., Arkansas (1986). (c) 1996 Grolier, Inc.

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