And we finally entered the Escalante. I remember the first
time I went down Highway 12, an amazing strip of asphalt that straddles
airy drop-offs, and cuts through the slickest rocks of the Escalante. It
was in my first veehicle: that dreaded Landcruiser the color of moldy lemons.
I was bearing down on Colorado, thinking only of climbing every 14er with
Randy that summer, when suddenly I found myself in the middle of Escalante
summer slickrock. The road looked like a winding strip of Hershey's chocolate
bars, placed end to end as far as the eye could see and melting into the
sandstone. It became a mandatory route between Lost Brainless and the Center
of the Universe, tugged on my mind every time I started planning for spring
break fun. I put it on the burner while studying other corners of the desert---Angel's
Landing, Grand Gulch, the Maze, Land of Standing Rocks, Mexican Hat, the
Needles, and many other places which shall remain unnamed (no sense in broadcasting
too many of these desert places into cyberspace)---but, frankly, the combination
of living in Michigan and the creation of the new National Monument made
me decide it was time for the Escalante. Gotta get there before the busloads
of German and Taiwanese tourists find it. If we're lucky Highway 12 will
remain the only paved trail in the region, and there's a good chance for
that. As you'll soon see this country isn't hospitable to freeways, even
hiking trails. The cliff-bands, tanks, rattlesnakes, slot-canyons, sand
drifts, and impossible distances will keep most people from most of the
good stuff. We have to save something for the scorpions!
