Grand Canyon Raft Trip

Spring, 2006

Friday, April 7

When we arrived at Lee's Ferry, we hiked to Lee's Lookout above the put-in area, overlooking the Paria River and Lonely Dell and the orchard. Ivo gave his introductory remarks about the trip.

After we put in, we saw a goat (which may have been an escaped domesticated goat), and bighorn sheep on two occasions. We saw fossil dinosaur tracks on a rock ~Mile 17.5, river right, below rapid.

Redbud was in bloom!

Lunch - chicken caesar salad in giant orange tortillas.

Location? - not sure

Camped at North Canyon. (Mile 20.5)

6:15 pm

Temp. 67.3

Hum. 30.0%

Bar. 27.85

Very light wind, completely clear.

Dinner: grilled pork, salad.

Saturday, April 8

Up 5:15 am

Temp. 52.1

Hum. 45%

Bar. 26.89

Felt pretty cold - put on long underwear, and put a bag liner over Laurie. It warmed up pretty quickly, though. We saw a ring-tailed cat last night! I kept hearing a rustling sound, and when I finally lifted my head, it was very dark, but I could just make out what almost looked like a lemur, with a small body and long bushy tail. At my movement, it instantly streaked a distance away, but then came back. I ended up getting a pretty good look at it. I woke Laurie, and she just caught a glimpse of it before it ran away again. I got the video camera out and kept it ready, but alas it didn't come back. In the morning I found a ziplock bag with my first-aid kit in it about 20 feet from camp. The animal had taken it out of a nylon bag I had left sitting next to my sleeping bag and dragged it off!

Short hike up North Canyon (Supai Group, in exfoliated sandstone)

Ivo gave his illustrated timeline talk, and explained the exfoliation process.

Lunch: turkey, cheese, etc. sandwiches.

Stopped at South Canyon (Mile 31.5), hiked up to ruins. Ivo talked about hydrology, limestone karst, caves, and water movement. Brad talked about some Indian history. Drifter showed Laurie and I an unexcavated foundation, full of sand. I wouldn't have known it was a ruin.

Stopped at Redwall Cavern (Mile 33.0). Laurie and I played frisbee with Jeff. He is really great with Laurie. Took a picture of fossils on the rock at the edge of the cavern (a crinoid stem and brachiopod shells).

We discovered that Laurie left her activity bag under the big rock at North Canyon. Laurie knew immediately that we couldn't go back, and there were a few tears. Fortunately, her journal, which had been in the bag, was in her pack. It was very sad! All of the reading that I hoped would keep her occupied was in the bag, so I was kind of discouraged. Laurie adapted, bless her heart. It turned out OK.

Camped at Buck Farm (Mile 41.0)

Dinner: tortillas, chicken, beans, rice, cooked veggies. Really good. Laurie hung out with the crew and helped with dinner. They seemed impressed with her helpfulness.

Brad told a long story about the history of Bert Loper. He's a great story teller.

10 pm (in tent)

Temp 71

Hum 37.5%

Bar 26.97

Sunday, April 9

6:20 am

Temp 57.7

Hum 37.5

Bar. 26.97 clear, calm

Breakfast: eggs, bacon, sausage, bagels, cereal

Hiked up Buck Farm, many redbuds. Laurie did OK on the hike.

Boated down to Nankoweap, where we would camp (Mile 53.0). Harlan let Laurie drive the boat for a while, a real high point of the trip, and she got the hang of it pretty fast.

Lunch: BLT's

Hiked up to the top of the debris flow ridge for geology talk, and then up to Granaries. The trail up was tough for Laurie - very steep and lots of big rocks to step over. A lot of people passed us on the way down. But she did it! We got some good pictures at the top, and some of the both of us thanks to Ed.

(The sunshower tent was set up on one of the rafts when we got back. The shower didn't go so well for Laurie - the water hadn't gotten very warm, and the rash on her poor legs hurt from the water.)

Dinner: salad, potatoes, grilled steak and chicken. Laurie had potatoes and chicken.

Monday, April 10

6:30 am

Temp. 63

Hum 25.2

Bar. 26.82

Breakfast: eggs, with greens, feta cheese, green pepper.

Ivo gave a talk on river action, gravity flow, and friction.

(Energy of erosion goes up with the square of the discharge. Relatively infrequent large flows can do much downcutting.)

Motored down to the Little Colorado. Laurie had a good time walking along the river and playing on the rocks.

Went on to Carbon Creek (mile 64.6), where we would camp. We had lunch, and then did the Carbon - Chuar - Lava hike. It's definitely one of the best hikes in the canyon. Laurie started out dragging, but really got into the climb up the steep rock fall in Carbon - she did really well. Then, near the head of the canyon, we were listening to Ivo, and my hat blew off in a really fierce wind gust. It blew up a chimney at close to the speed of sound. Laurie and I had been sitting up on a short, steep slope. When I got up, Laurie got up and tried to follow, but slipped and scraped her leg pretty well. She wasn't too happy for the rest of the trip - it really is kind of a long hike. After we got back I patched her up (she did perk up when Dave ran us into a sand bar bringing us up from Lava!). But thanks to the crew, and potatoes and grilled chicken and pound cake and whipped cream, she had a good night.

During dinner I had a nice talk with Dave. He said what a great kid Laurie was, and I thanked him for all the attention the crew was giving her, and he said it was no problem at all - they all enjoyed her. I also unloaded some of my concern about bringing her, and he said the trip would have its ups and downs, but she would remember it for the rest of her life. That helped me a lot. I also talked with Linda, who was helping Laurie with Sudoku, and she said Laurie was really smart and picked it up fast.

Nick Nikoleidas told me today what a delightful young lady Laurie was.

Tuesday, April 11

Breakfast: eggs and potatoes.

We cruised down to Espejo Wash and walked to Ivo's old research site with the Indian maize burn layers, then hiked up Comanche creek to the funky mystery trail and up to the "fort." Laurie helped Drifter attempt to fly a kite, but the wind wasn't quite strong enough.

We had lunch above Tanner rapid: sliced turkey and chips, and Laurie used a slice of bread as a plate for the turkey, and then handed me the bread, and then ate chips. Worked for her! Laurie and I hiked up to the petroglyph chair, where I took her picture.

We continued down to Cardenas, which was blessedly empty. We stopped about 1 pm, and had a relaxed afternoon. Laurie actually asked me for her homework folder (!), and did it on the boat with the crew. This gave me some welcome free time. We had probably the best campsite of the trip. It was on the western edge of camp, with a great view of Comanche point.

Dinner: some great green pasta, salad, and garlic bread.

After dinner, as it started to get dark, we hiked up to the hilltop (we went the short route with Dave, directly to the top). Laurie was kind of slow, but got into it. The view from the top was amazing, under an almost-full moon. I got some great tripod pictures.

9:30 pm

Temp 67.5

Hum 32.3

Bar 27.23

Wednesday, April 12

5:45 am

Temp 52.5

Hum 40.0%

Bar 27.31

Breakfast: english muffins, cream cheese, shaved ham

We scouted Hance Rapid, then entered Upper Granite Gorge. We hiked up Clear Creek - Dave was kind enough to take us up to the falls as others were returning. Laurie loved the waterfall - it's the double one where one stream comes in from the side. She didn't have her swimsuit on (I didn't think ahead about this hike), so she took off her top and went behind the falls, and I took pictures of her back there grinning happily. The other folks had to wait a bit until we got back, but Laurie did great focusing on Dave in the lead, and we made good time.

Lunch, above Zoroaster Canyon: chicken, roast beef, cheese, lettuce and tomato sandwiches.

We motored down to Phantom Ranch. Unfortunately, we only had about 1 1/2 hours (only partly due to our slowness up Clear Creek :)), but I wrote three post cards, and mailed them with Laurie's (Which I thankfully had her write the day before!), had ice cold lemonade (which Laurie got for us while I was writing), and got back to the boat. We definitely need more time there.

We ran Horn Creek and Hermit (big!), and stopped at Schist Canyon for camp.

Dinner: seafood salad, Baja tacos (burritos)

Took some tripod moon photos.

7 pm

Temp 79.5

Hum 19.8

Bar 27.49

Thursday, April 13

6:20 am

Temp 58.4

Hum 38.1

Bar 27.63 absolutely clear, and calm

Breakfast - pancakes, sausage. Laurie helped make the pancakes, and of course had some, with milk. She helped finish the batter by making a huge pancake, which was put in a bag and saved for her.

Ivo gave a plate tectonics and subduction talk. Afterward, we motored down to Bass Camp, which was thankfully open. On the way we stopped at the "Ross Wheeler," Burt Loper's old boat. Brad gave a great talk about Burt.

Most people went on the hike over the high ridge and down to Bass's old camp on Shinumo Creek. I had been there last trip, and I wanted to give Laurie a break, so we went on a raft a short distance downstream to the mouth of Shinumo, with Drifter, Linda, Baerbel, and some others. Unfortunately, it was running really high, so we couldn't hike up but a few dozen yards, and we had to form a chain to even cross it. That was an interesting brush with the force of nature, but Laurie did great. We ended up hanging out on the opposite bank for a while. Harlan had humped his kayak up and over the ridge to Bass's Camp, and ran the creek down to where we were. It was cool having him appear out of nowhere.

Back at camp, Harlan let Laurie paddle around in his kayak in the eddy next to camp, much to the delight of everyone. Again, they were very impressed with her ability. And most kayakers have to wait years before they paddle in the Grand Canyon!

I took a sunshower at the camp's great shower spot. The water was warm, finally, and it always feels great to be clean. Laurie declined, but she and Andrea bathed again in the river. She even came back with her hair washed. I'm so appreciative to Andrea . . .

Dinner: grilled hamburger and brats, cooked by Dave on the grill, along with salad. Had my usual 1/3 mug of red wine. It goes great with the meal.

9:50 pm

Temp 68

Hum 29.6

Bar 27.56 totally calm, with hazy clouds - beautiful

Friday, April 14

Stopped at Elves Chasm - quite a beautiful place, with a great waterfall a short hike upstream. The pool is fairly deep, and you can jump off a ledge about 8 ft. above the water (Laura and Harlan did it). Again, Laurie didn't have her bathing suit, which might have been for the best in this situation. But she quickly forgot about that as she was very busy picking up mating frogs.

We then stopped at Blacktail Canyon, probably the most magical place in the Canyon with the great unconformity of 1.2 billion years of missing time. Harlan played three songs on his guitar, one of which brought several people to tears (song . . . Lydia?).

We camped at Stone Creek (mile 133.8) just below Dubendorf Rapids. It was a bit windy and overcast setting up camp, but I put rocks in the tent and tied the corners down. Ed and Laurie and I hiked about a quarter mile up the canyon to the first waterfall. Laurie and I started up the trail around the falls, but turned back when I saw how steep it was. When we got back the wind was really starting to pick up. Dinner was a challenge, as gusts of wind would create mini sand storms, blowing across the food pots and our plates, but the crew persevered and pulled off a great dinner of rice, beef, and a kind of noodle salad for a topping. We would see a gust of wind hit the tents, whipping the tops over and down halfway to the ground, then turn our backs and try to stay upright as it swept over us, all while trying to finish our sumptuous meal (if only sand had nutritional value!). Then just as dinner ended, it really started to get bad, and quite dark, and we made our way to the tents, where we found sand everywhere, forming mini dunes across our sleeping bags. Hardly able to open our eyes in the blowing sand, Laurie and I got in the tent, where I lifted our sleeping bags and shook the sand off the tops. Laurie knew exactly what to do - she gamely got into hers and promptly went to sleep. What a trooper. Without a complaint she had withstood just about the most miserable conditions the Canyon could dish out. I just lay on top of my bag and read my book about the cultural history of the Canyon, and in one corner of my mind felt that elation that comes with feeling relatively safe in the midst of nature's onslaught. Then it started to rain quite hard. I got in my bag and slept until morning.

Saturday, April 15

The day dawned overcast but pretty calm. This was a layover day - we didn't have to get up and pack.

Breakfast: mexican eggs with salsa. Laurie ate more of her giant pancake.

There were two hikes scheduled, a long one led by Brad that went up Galloway Canyon and back down Stone Creek. They left pretty early. Dave took another group up Stone Creek. Laurie and I hung out at camp all morning, playing some frisbee, and Laurie visited with Rhonda and Linda, who were painting. In the afternoon I went on a pretty long hike up Stone Creek to the slot waterfall - kind of my little escape for the trip. Laurie was looked after by the folks at camp. It was a great hike, but I ended up getting back a little later than I intended (past 6 pm), and Dave and Harlan had started out looking for me. I was quite chagrined, but I learned I need to communicate my intentions more clearly, and know what the guide's expectations are. But overall it was a really gorgeous day.

Dinner: spaghetti! Laurie ate a huge amount, and some garlic bread.

Sunday. April 16

7:30 am

Temp 63.2

Hum 41.1

Bar 27.80 clear, slight breeze

Breakfast: toasted english muffins and cereal.

We spent the morning at Deer Creek. Laurie did the steep climb up to the top of the falls OK, as well as the narrow path along the creek to the Patio. Jeff played with her at the falls by the Patio, and I had a brief sojourn upstream for a few minutes.

We stopped at Pancho's Kitchen for lunch: pita bread, hummus, cheese, tabooli, ham, etc. Laurie had mayo and ham. This is the campsite with the huge sandstone overhang that everyone can fit under. We stayed here in 2004, on the one night it was raining during dinner - excellent timing.

We stopped at Matkatamiba Canyon after lunch. This has a very interesting spot about a half mile up, the favorite of many. It has a character all it's own, with unique rock forms and ledges. Getting in is a challenge - it was a deep wade into the canyon from the boats, almost up to Laurie's shoulders at one brief spot, and a narrow path to walk, but very much worth it.

We camped at Upset Rapid, a very noisy place. I felt rather discouraged landing and setting up camp. It was a long, narrow beach, and we were one of the farthest from the boats. Laurie was down, too. But she perked up at dinner (grilled steak and chicken, mashed potatoes, salad. Laurie had chicken I grilled for her, and potatoes). We both felt better by bedtime.

9:30 pm

Temp 75

Hum 27.4

Bar 27.81

Monday, April 17

A gorgeous, clear morning. Breakfast: cereal, blueberry pancakes.

For our afternoon stop at Havasu, we made lunches of cheese and salami sandwiches, pringles, a bag of trail mix, cookies, and a granola bar. Laurie made a bag of pringles and cookies (I took a Cliff bar for her main course).

Havasu was sublime, as usual, although the 45 minute walk upstream was a bit laborious for Laurie. But we found a perfect pool (the same pool that Dan, Josh, Ellen and I stopped at in 2000). We ate lunch and both went swimming (kind of cold, but OK after the initial plunge). Laurie stayed in for a while, but unfortunately the sun went behind the cliff pretty early, so we went downstream and dozed on a rock in the sun for a while. Very enjoyable. The sun went away again, so we found one more rock in the sun. Then it was time to head back. The boats pulled out at 3:30. It was quite a perfect day.

Laurie's legs are really bothering her - her skin is really reacting to something, maybe the sunscreen. Linda suggested Neutrogena for Sensitive Skin, and even put some on her face. It's kind of strange that it's only her legs that are affected, though.

We camped at National Canyon. It's a great camp. Big, with secluded nooks in the brush for tents. It was Lava Eve, and Laurie was a big hit painting everyone's toenails, including mine. Jan passed out leis and burned incense, and performed other assorted rituals that would get us safely through Lava Falls. It seemed I finally felt at ease tonight, 90% of the way through the trip. I guess I'm finally convinced we'll make without a calamity or meltdown on Laurie's part. She's really having a good time overall. She had a great day today.

Dinner: Chicken quesadillas, beans and rice.

9 pm

Temp 62.0

Hum 21.7

Bar 28.13

Tuesday, April 18

6 am

Temp 50

Hum 32

Bar 28.27

We stopped and scouted Lava Falls after breakfast, and indeed made it through without a hitch. We camped at Pumpkin Springs, with the strange orange colored travertine pool, and the foul water inside. That's out of site over a small hill - otherwise it was a great camp. Laurie and I slept without a tent for the second time of the trip - it was a beautiful night.

Wednesday, April 19

7 am

Temp 58.9

Hum 26.9

Bar 28.45 clear, light breeze

Breakfast: eggs scrambled with potatoes, sausage, cereal.

Our last day. We took out a Diamond Creek. AzRA trucks were there to load the rafts, which is quite an undertaking. Our ride out of the canyon on the bus took about an hour on a pretty rough road. We stopped at a place along Route 66 for lunch, and then it was on to Flagstaff.