CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:
Abuja City Gate; Bill Clinton Drive, the main road
to the airport; Kado village, one of many shantytowns on Abuja's outskirts
being demolished to make way for the utopian master plan.
Driving from the Abuja airport along Bill Clinton Drive, a gently curving
road lined with acacia trees and electric streetlights, one encounters the
impressive public image of the new capital city of Nigeria: clean, safe,
orderly, and utterly modern. The contrast could not be starker in comparison
to the former capital, Lagos, so unthinkably overcrowded that the razing
of entire neighborhoods is being contemplated. Upon arrival at the Abuja
City Gate, however, a more somber reality presents itself: sentries with
machine guns stand watch over even the flower gardens, belying the
city's motto, "You Are Welcome."
Designed in the late 1970s for the democratic aspirations of a Nigerian
nation flush with petroleum dollars, Abuja was meant to create a stable
setting for the country's first-ever elected government, forge a unified
national identity, and make the government accessible to all of its 250
ethnic groups. The Abuja Master Plan, completed in 1979, was largely the
work of the Philadelphia firm Wallace, Roberts & Todd; Japanese
architect Kenzo Tange, inspired by Le Corbusier's proposed City for Three
Million Inhabitants, designed the city center and most of the federal buildings
in the early 1980s. The central city's core, the Three-Arms Zone, was supposed
to represent the balance of power between the executive, legislative, and
judicial branches of government. But before most of the plan could be completed
a military coup intervened, followed by a series of increasingly brutal
dictatorships.
Twenty years and seven governments later Nigeria is again a country with
free elections and Abuja's development is again under way. The headquarters
of the Economic Community of West African States is already located in Abuja,
and the recently formed West African Subregional Parliament--the body that
may eventually subsume 13 nations within a United States of West Africa--is
to be located there. Nnamdi Elleh, author of a forthcoming book on Abuja,
has called the city "the single most ambitious urban design project
of the twentieth century." But despite the capital's inviting scenic
vistas, triumphalist monuments, and African-influenced contemporary
architecture, the government of Nigeria has yet to adapt to the democratic
implications of its design. Public spaces are the architectural expression
of a nation-state, but there is still no such thing as public space in Abuja--or
for that matter any private property available to the 500,000 squatters
living on the outskirts of the city.
The construction site of Nigeria's new National Stadium, in Abuja.
"The original planners had attempted to avoid what has happened in
places like Brasília," says Akin Mabogunje, who surveyed the
site for the city in 1976 and is now serving as an advisor for Abuja's second
phase of development. "Because Brasília's planners didn't provide
for the lodgings of the service population, massive shantytowns developed
around the capital city. Unfortunately, no sooner had the Abuja plan been
completed than politicians attempted to hurry the move, disrupting the smooth
development of the city"--and creating slums. The Abuja Master Plan
anticipated fewer than 200,000 residents during the present phase of construction.
The administration believes that the population has already surpassed one
million--a result of the work created by the stepped-up pace of construction
during the oil boom of the 1980s, religious conflicts in the north,
and typical problems of rural life that continue to draw villagers to the
metropolis. The land within the central city, distributed by what is still
considered the most corrupt government in the world, has largely fallen
into the hands of the government ministers themselves, and the developments
they've built have systematically priced out the service population. As
a result peasants have been forced to build their homes on the outskirts
using whatever resources are available: mud bricks and thatch, or, more
commonly, thick branches supporting corrugated aluminum roofs.
"When you combine the population of the pockets that surround Abuja,
you discover that it is much greater than the city itself," says Nosike
Ogbuenyi, press secretary to the minister of the Federal Capital Territory.
"As the population is growing some of the services are not keeping
pace. Sanitation is one of the problems, because some buildings have been
constructed on top of sewage lines and are disrupting the flow. Right
now we are trying to map out the entire city so that no one else will be
tempted to build in those places."
In democratic Nigeria, inconvenient administrative problems such as these
are still adjudicated in the manner of their British colonial predecessors:
by military force. Last October the soon-to-be-deposed minister of the Federal
Capital Territory, Ibrahim Bunu, casually ordered the demolition of the
villages of Kado, Garki, and Wuse, accomplished with bulldozers and a squadron
of police. When the villagers came back from work, many of their homes were
gone. It was a necessary step toward completion of the master plan: service
population's shanties were in the way.
"We are currently planning to build housing for 650,000 people in Abuja,"
says M. S. U. Kalgo, director of the territory's Department of Land, Planning,
and Surveying. "The developments will be built according to Walter
Christaller's theory of hierarchical order of goods. The lower the order
of economic goods, the shorter the distance you should have to travel to
obtain them." The incoming administration claims that no more villages
will be demolished without adequate warning and provision of low-income
housing. But faith in the master plan on the part of government ministers
and critics alike is seemingly impenetrable; no one appears to wonder if
Abuja's problems have anything to do with the design of this absolutely
planned place.
In any case, work on the capital has been hobbled by vices more native to
Nigerian government than idealistic planning: a nationwide infrastructural
crisis on a scale unheard of in even the poorest countries of the region
undermines all but the most basic forms of human activity. The telephone
system barely functions, the electric power grid is sporadic at best, and
constant gasoline shortages result in quarter-mile-long queues at gas pumps.
Federal ministers continue to occupy themselves by trading property for
government posts and construction contracts. Last year the infrastructure
had so deteriorated that work on the National Stadium, one of the major
features of the new city, stopped while the contractor negotiated a special
deal from the government: some of the country's petroleum, 50 percent of
which is exported to the United States, would have to be diverted to the
thankless job of nation-building.
Even critics agree that the project of building a capital to foster national
identity is extraordinarily important for a country starved of unifying
symbols and despoiled by its leaders. And at least as far as creating an
ethnically neutral territory is concerned, Abuja has been a success, according
to press secretary Ogbuenyi. "In Abuja you can find all of the
tribes living together, and no single tribe has an absolute majority,"
he says. "So the political representation is very evenly divided."
But it's this same cosmopolitan population whose homes will be destroyed
through the government's single-minded adherence to the master plan.
From a distance an undeniable majesty prevails over the city of Abuja, which
is dominated by Aso Rock, a huge granite mount that forms the backdrop to
the city and once served as an ancestral shrine to the local tribes. At
the base of the mount the fortresslike residence of the president and commander
of the armed forces, presently occupied by Olusegun Obasanjo, provides the
capital with unintended symbolism. Although hidden away, the residence has
usurped the power of the presidential villa designed by Tange, which has
sat abandoned up the road from the Nigerian Secret Service since the 1983
military coup. In effect, the executive arm has been severed and replaced
by a clumsy strong arm. At Aso Rock the machinations of political power
remain guarded from public view, much like the public monuments. Nigeria
has built its modern African capital; now it's up to Nigeria's leaders to
find a place for their citizens within it.